The following is a tour of Easton in 1886 from the book History of
Easton, Mass. by William L. Chaffin, published in 1886 by John Wilson
and Son, University Press, Cambridge, MA. Copies of the book are held by
the Ames Free Library, Easton's public library. This web page was created
by Tom Tullis.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
EASTON IN 1886.
THE OLD TIMES AND THE NEW. - NORTH EASTON VILLAGE AS IT IS TO-DAY. - THE AMES MEMORIAL HALL. - SOUTH EASTON VILLAGE AND THE GREEN. - A TRIP THROUGH EASTON CENTRE, AND A GLANCE AT FURNACE VILLAGE.
We have now nearly completed our survey of the history of Easton. How the Wampanoag Indian sachems, Massasoit and Philip, sold the land, and the fifty-three purchasers thereof organized a great Land Company; how the lands were divided and settled; how Clement Briggs, the Randalls, Capt. John Phillips, the Manleys, and others came here from Weymouth and elsewhere nearly two hundred years ago, built their log houses, cleared away the forests, erected their mills, organized a church and incorporated the town; how ministers came and went, church controversies arose, and the clamor of tongues waxed loud and then grew still ; how, led by stirring fife and drum, our fathers proudly marched the streets on training days, or faced the foe on bloody battle-fields; how industries have risen and prospered, log cabins given place to beautiful homes and stately mansions, and the old stage-coach been banished by steam-cars; how friction matches have succeeded flint and tinderbox, and the pitchpine torch and tallow dip given way to gas and kerosene; how our fathers were content with letters once a week, and the newspaper was to them a curiosity, while we may now read the daily papers at breakfast and get our letters thrice a day; nay, how we annihilate time and space, and standing at the telephone may actually converse with friends who are miles away, --all this is but part of the story of the last two hundred years in Easton.
We have as yet made no attempt to describe the town as it is to-day. For residents such description is needless; but for those who once lived here and have long been absent, and for others who have not been here, an attempt at a description must be made, although the result will necessarily be inadequate. Carefully prepared maps of the town are given, showing the location and ownership of dwelling-houses and other buildings, as also the location of highways, streams, and ponds. In order to secure sufficient space for names, it was necessary to give the map of North Easton village on a separate sheet.
The visitor who came to Easton a few years ago by cars and stopped at North Easton, received an unpleasant impression of the place at once by alighting in a dark and smoky station, and seeing only dismal waiting-rooms and surroundings singularly unattractive. He would now, however, in alighting find himself upon the platform of one of the most beautiful small railroad stations in the country. It is the generous gift to the Old Colony Railroad of F. L. Ames; but the real intent of it is to beautify and benefit the village where it stands, and its giver has laid the whole community under obligations for his kindness. It is the work of the noted architect, the late H. H. Richardson; is built of Braggville granite, so-called, and brown sandstone, and has spacious and elaborately finished waitingrooms. A heliotype print of it is presented to the reader's attention; it is a view taken from the southeast, and gives some idea, though an imperfect one, of the well laid-out grounds about the station. All the surroundings have been greatly improved. Concrete sidewalks are laid on Oliver Street, which is north of the station, and which has recently been widened and straightened. The large Hinge Factory of E. W. Gilmore and the long substantial stone shops of the Ames Shovel Works give a decided business aspect to this locality.
A little way east of this building are the spacious grounds owned by Governor Oliver Ames and F. L. Ames. These grounds are finely laid out. The large stone house at the left, not far from the entrance, is that of Governor Ames. A few minutes' walk, leading across the pond by the stone bridge, brings us in sight of the stately residence of F. L. Ames; and beyond this we may see his roomy and handsome stable, beautifully finished with furniture maple; and still farther on his extensive greenhouse, which is justly esteemed one of the most interesting objects of the village, it being kindly open to visitors, who may find themselves in a moment transported to the tropics, feasting their eyes upon the sight of the richness and luxuriance of tropical vegetation, -- graceful palms and ferns, wonderful foliage-plants and orchids, exciting constant surprise and admiration. One room in this greenhouse, called the fernery, is so exquisitely beautiful that it brings a strain upon one's vocabulary if he attempts to give adequate expression to his feelings at the sight of it. Many tons of porous limestone brought here from New York State are piled in masses in this fernery, are covered with mosses, ferns, and vines, and from among them rise tall palms and Australian tree ferns. The collection of orchids in this greenhouse is with one exception the most extensive and valuable in this country.
Leaving the greenhouse and going north by the carriage-way, we soon arrive at the very unique and interesting Gate-lodge which stands at the northern entrance of Mr. Ames's grounds. The view as we approach it is the same as that seen in the picture which serves as the frontispiece of this book. The observer will notice that it is built of large, roundish, moss-covered stones solidly cemented together. The circular section at the right, with its conical roof, contains a lofty room, which is used for the storage of plants in winter, while the part at the left serves the purpose of a dwelling, the two sections being connected by a massive arch of Longmeadow sandstone. H. H. Richardson was its architect, and it is greatly admired by the many persons who see it.
Passing under the arch of the Gate-lodge, we are facing the north, and find ourselves on Elm Street. At the right we may see the Washington Street Methodist church in the distance, now unused for regular services. If we went that way we should find on Washington Street, north of the church, almost a village of thrifty looking houses. This section is known as the Other Neighborhood, as Unionville, the Dickerman Neighborhood, the Dark Corner, and Square-top, the last name being given with reference to the shape of the tower on the church.
Departing from the Gate-lodge and approaching North Easton village by Elm Street, we pass the tenement houses that bear the suggestive name of Battle Row,-- a name they do not appear to deserve at the present time, -- and leaving E. W. Gilmore's Hinge Factory and house upon the left, we enter Main Street opposite the beautiful vine-covered parsonage of Unity Church. From this point Canton Street diverges to the northwest, while Main Street extending northward terminates in the woods, suggesting that Western road, so wittily described by Emerson, which was first a cartpath, then a footpath, then a squirrel-track, and then ran up a tree. We shall, however, turn to the left and to south on Main Street. Unity Church is at our right, standing upon ground that is just one hundred and forty-five feet above sea-level, Schoolhouse Hill being forty-seven feet higher. Beyond the church, which has been described in another chapter, we go down Main Street, passing several dwelling-houses, including the large residence with the beautifully kept garden of Mrs. Oliver Ames, Sr., and also the old Ames homestead, when we have the Shovel Works on our left, and the attractive grounds and residence of O. A. Ames on the right. In the valley, on one side of the street, are the large store and small post-office, both more useful than ornamental. But we shall strive to keep the visitor's gaze fixed upon the other side of the street, where he may see the beautiful Public Library building, which has been spoken of also in another chapter, and the noble and massive Memorial Hall, also elsewhere mentioned, before which we must pause for a few moments. This Hall was built in memory of Oakes Ames by his children, and was presented by them to the town. It stands on the solid foundation of a natural ledge, from the northeast corner of which rises the beautiful octagonal tower, on whose frieze are carved the twelve signs of the zodiac. For the entire length in front the building is ornamented with an arcade having five arches, which rest upon low strong columns with carved capitals. The material used in the construction of the first story of this building is the sienite stone from a quarry only a few rods distant, the second story being finished in handsome brick; the trimmings are of red sandstone, and the steep imposing roof is covered with red tiles. Over the front dormer window appears a monogram formed of the letters O. A. The Hall stands at a high elevation above the road, though near to it, and is approached by wide stone staircases, terminating on stone platforms, and so combined with the natural stone-work as to present a grand appearance. On the first floor of the building are two small halls; on the second floor is the main hall, which, exclusive of a large stage, is fifty-nine feet in length, forty-seven in width, and twenty in height, - the stage measuring twenty-six by eighteen feet. The upper room is beautifully finished as a Masonic Hall. The whole building outside, excluding the tower, is ninety-six and one third feet in length. The architect of this noble building was H. H. Richardson.
Memorial Hall was dedicated November 17, 1881, with interesting exercises; and on that occasion it was formally presented by Oliver Ames to the chairman of the Board of Trustees, who were to hold and manage the building for the benefit of the town of Easton. The chairman was Lewis H. Smith, who made an appropriate response to the presentation address of Mr. Ames. The trustees alluded to are members of a legal corporation called the Oakes Ames Memorial Hall Association. This corporation has entire control of all the property, and of its management. The town can have "the full and free use of said premises, without payment of rent for all the ordinary purposes of a Town Hall," if it chooses to do so. But the building is not centrally enough located for town-meeting purposes, and is not likely to be used for them, the town having just built a new town-hall at Easton Centre. A fund of two thousand dollars has been given to the trustees of Memorial Hall, the interest of which may be applied to the payment of insurance, and the unexpended balance used for repairs. For several years the Hall has realized about one hundred dollars annually above expenses, and this sum has been paid into the town treasury.
In front of this building, in the large triangular piece of ground enclosed between Lincoln Street and the two branches of Main Street, has been built by the Ames Corporation, from designs by Fred Law Olmstead, an extensive rockwork, or cairn. It is two hundred and fifty feet long, twenty-five feet high at one end, and wide enough at the top for a carriage to drive upon it and turn around. Underneath it is an arch, and from the highest part of it rises a tall flag-staff. The whole is nearly covered with vines and shrubbery in the summer-time, and presents a striking appearance. At the east end Centre Street diverges from Main Street, running southerly, its northern part being the location of Carr's market, several stores, Spooner's building, and John King's boot-shop, beyond which point the street presents a very neat and attractive appearance.
Near the cairn Main Street curves to the cast, crossing the railroad bridge above the track. In the hollow, northward, on Mechanic Street, will soon rise to view the new boot-shop, built for Gould and Closson. On the hill at the right is the residence of Dr. Cogswell ; the Methodist church is seen a few rods to the left of the street, and farther on is the Roman Catholic church and its parsonage. The visitor will hardly fail to notice the nicely kept grounds of Lucius Seaver, and next it the new dwelling-house of George W. Kennedy. From just beyond this the view looking northward up the pond to the stone bridge, and across the lawn and grounds of F. L. Ames, is one of the most attractive in town.
Before taking leave of North Easton village a word of explanation concerning the picture here given is desirable. The point of view is the tower of Governor Ames's house, with a portion of his premises in the foreground. The central object in the distance is the schoolhouse rising conspicuously above the other buildings, and the large edifice at the right will be recognized as Memorial Hall. The long roofs and high chimneys of the Shovel Shops show plainly at the right, and Shovel Shop Pond is seen at the left. It may seem strange to have a picture of a New England village with no church in sight, but Unity Church is too far to the right, and the Methodist and Roman Catholic churches too far to the left, to come within the range of this view. This village is now furnished with street lights, and concrete walks are added every year ; it will soon also be provided with water-works.
North Easton must not, however, longer claim our time, and we therefore pass on to Washington Street, by which we shall soon reach South Easton village. Any one who has been to this village before, and who visits it now, will notice a striking change recently made. Edward N. Morse has taken the Dr. Swan house for his home, has thoroughly remodelled it, cleared the land, built about it a strong and handsome wall, secured the straightening of the highway, and is making of the place an extensive and fine looking homestead. At the right as we continue southward we see the Thread Factory, of which a picture has already been presented to the reader; and farther down, at the most ancient mill-site in town, T. H. and J. O. Dean have their gristmill and machine shop. This locality, where Washington and Depot streets cross each other, is the Green, so called for many years, the exact site, as already told, of the Rev. Solomon Prentice's Presbyterian meeting-house, part of the lot of land he deeded for that purpose being now taken for highways. Several new and excellent houses have recently been built near by. Just below is Mr. Simpson's wheelwright shop. Depot Street leads easterly to the Turnpike, where we find the recently built Grand Army Hall which was dedicated December 9, 1886; also a new shoe-shop, and a cluster of houses up and down the street known as White's Village.
Taking Depot Street westward, we pass the head of Church Street, with the old cemetery just in sight, and about a mile beyond cross the Old Colony Railroad track near the Easton railroad station. Continuing farther we soon come to the Evangelical church, of which a picture has been given, and we successively pass the Soldier's Monument, the new Town Hall, and the Almshouse. This locality, with about fifteen dwelling-houses, a railroad station, and the boot-shop of Lackey & Davie, is known as Easton Centre.
Pursuing our journey nearly two miles southwest of the Centre we arrive at the Furnace Village, a pleasant and enterprising place. Depot Street terminates at the Bay road, where it is crossed by Foundry Street. At this spot is the old corner store long the property of Joel S. Drake, and just opposite is the new carriage factory of Albert M. Hayward. A short distance westward from this corner may be seen the foundries of the Drakes and Belchers, which we do not expect to find ornamental in their appearance, but which have long added and continue to add materially to the prosperity of the village. Farther south on the Bay road is the Kimball store-stand where once stood the old Kimball tavern, and westward may be seen the two-story schoolhouse. This neighborhood is enterprising and thrifty, the village is pleasant, and its inhabitants boast with apparent good reason that no intoxicating liquors are retailed within their borders.
We must here close our very imperfect survey of the town, having noticed the several centres of population. As a whole, Easton has no reason to shun comparison with the average New England town ; while its excellent roads, several of its industries, its educational advantages, and some of its public buildings and private residences give it pre-eminence over other towns of its class.